How the Best Goalkeepers Prepare

Hope Solo, one of the world's best goalkeepers (AP Photo)

Goalkeepers need to be in great shape and prepared to defend every inch of the net behind them during the course of a long game. That means practices have to be productive to prepare you for game day.

This is a great workout that can really help you improve:

Warmup Jog (10 Minutes)

You should start with an easy jog, to warm your body up before you make any sudden movements that might cause you to pull a muscle.

The first five minutes should be a straight-ahead jog. The next five minutes should include a more active jog in which you should begin shuffling, skipping, touching toes, etc. (all of this should be done without stopping).

Stretching (5 Minutes)

Stretching is something that everyone must do to prepare your muscles for a tough workout. Make sure to stretch all of the major muscle group in a slow controlled stretch.

Handling (10 Minutes)

Note: Another player or coach is needed as a server from here on out during the workout.

Make sure that there is no diving during this part of the handling--you are just trying to work on smoothly receiving shots into your hands.

Start with straight-ahead volleys into your hands (take about 20-30). Then, start to move from post to post as balls are being served to your hands as you reach each post. Next, have the server play balls along the ground as you continue to shuffle from post to post.

Take a minute to rest so you are fresh and ready for you next set.

Next, have the server play balls out of his/her hands up towards the upper corners of the net so you have to jump for the service (make sure service is not too far as we do not want to overextend ourselves at this point in the training). Then, take another rest and stretch some more.

Diving/Rhythm Work (30 Minutes)

While seated, have the server toss or kick balls to both your right and left using proper catching technique. Obviously, catch the ball and return back to the server. Then, switch from side to side and take about 20-30 repetitions.

Next, from a standing position, have the server play balls off the ground at mid-range height to your right side only (take 6-10 reps). Then, perform above drill to your left side. After that, perform the above drill while alternating from side to side.

Finally, perform the previous three drills over but have all balls served on the ground.

Now, place six cones on the ground in a line and about two feet apart from each other. At the end of the cones, put two cones about six yards apart from each other to simulate two goalposts. The goalposts will be located at the end of the cones.

Then, shuffle through the cones. As you get to the end, step into the goal and have the server place balls at mid-range height to your right side. Catch each serve and return it to the server. Then, go back to first cone and start over (take 6-10 reps).

Think it's over yet? You haven't even started. Perform above drill to your left side, then do it while alternating from side to side. After that, perform previous three drills over again, but have all balls served on the ground.

Power Diving (10 Minutes)

This kind of training will really help your body to fly for those tough shots in the corners of the goal.

Place a cone one yard inside each goalpost on the goal line. You should start in the middle of the goal and the server should start somewhere between the penalty spot and the 18-yard line, depending on the accuracy of the server. When the server says to start, the goalkeeper should shuffle as quickly as possible to the cone on the left, and as the goalkeeper touches the cone, the server should toss the ball to the opposite post.

The server should make it a shot that is difficult for the goalkeeper to get to, but not so difficult that a full-out lunge wont do the trick. Do two in a row, come back to the center of the goal, take about five seconds and start in the other direction (take 6-10 reps).

For the next drill, the server should have six to eight balls lined up on the penalty spot. When the server says go, the first ball should be served to the right of the goalkeeper, making the goalkeeper dive to make the save either by catching the shot or parrying the shot and immediately serve the next ball the opposite side of the goal and repeat with all six to eight balls.

Crossing (10 Minutes)

A good training session wouldn't be complete without receiving a number of crossed balls from different angles, heights and speeds.

Start with your server playing a ball into the box from each side of the penalty area. Try and catch each ball at its highest point possible. If there are others around during your training, ask them to come and stand in and around the six-yard box, as this will give you some distraction while handling crosses and make it more like a game situation.

Fitness (Doggies)

Unfortunately, goalkeepers have to be as fit as any other player on the field. Fitness is also important for preventing injury. So, we have to run.

Start on the goal line and sprint to the six-yard box; back to the goal line; then to the penalty spot; back to the goal line; then to the top of the 18-yard box and back to the goal line. This is one repetition.

It sounds harsh, but repeat this four times. Take a one-minute rest and then perform the same doggy three more times. And dont forget: take part in team fitness training.

Cool Down (5-Minute Stretch)

Stretching after training is just as important as stretching before training.

Make sure to stretch all major muscle groups and take a light jog to cool down. Dont be afraid to do 50 push-ups and 150 sit-ups either--strength training is important for preventing injury.

Goalkeeping is all about consistency, and if you train every day, you need to have a work out that you are comfortable with.

Warm Up Your Goalkeepers the Right Way

I find the pre-game warm up is the single most important way to get the goalkeeper ready for a match.

Many coaches believe in visualization and pre-game speeches to inspire their players. While any preparation is good, the opening minutes of the game is the key to goalkeeping success. I also feel it important to do as much as possible to get the backup ready as well--you never know what is going to happen.

Here is how I warm up the goalkeepers for the USA Women's National Team. The first five stints involve both keepers:

• Ten volleys into hands
• Goalkeeper rolls ball and I hit it back to their hands (10 each)
• Goalkeeper shuffles from post to post; when they reach the post I serve ball to their hands (6 each)
• Balls served into air (from coaches hand) simulating cross ball. (3 to the right, three to the left)
• Balls served on ground, goalkeeper must dive. (4 to the left, 4 to the right)

The rest of the warm up involves only the starter:

• Shots from the 18-yard box. Coach and back-up alternate shooting from different angles, forcing the goalkeeper to use footwork across goal before saving the shot. (6 to 10 from each side)
• Cross balls from each side. (10 from each side)
• Back to shots from the 18-yard line, now shots are an attempt to score, forcing the goalkeeper to make more difficult saves.
• Play one touch with the feet (back-up is now at midfield), on every third pass the goalkeeper kicks a long ball to midfield.
• Goalkeeper works on half volleys and punts.
• Goalkeeper and back-up take shots from the team.

It is important that the coach pulls the starter from the shooting exercise after a big time save, sending the goalkeeper into the game with the utmost confidence.

If you notice, this warm up includes many exercises. It is designed to involve the goalkeeper in as many technical situations they will face in the game as possible.

The total time of the warm up should be no more than 30 minutes, so the exercises are short but effective.

I have used this warm up at every level that I have coached at and it has proved to be effective at getting players physically and mentally ready to play.

The Laws

It is very difficult to play a game if you don't know and understand the rules. A good goalkeeper -- or field player, or coach, for that matter -- needs to know the Laws of the Game of soccer in order to perform at their best. This section is not intended to be a complete primer on the Laws, but addresses specific areas that relate to goalkeeping. The black and white text of the Law book is supplemented by years of experience and tradition that impact how the game is called and how the players play.

Law 1 - The Field of Play

Although the soccer field and its markings are often taken for granted by the players unless there is something obviously wrong, it can be helpful for the goalkeeper to know the dimensions of the lines on the field. A keeper will use these lines more than anyone else on the field to determine their positioning. Before the game, scan the lines and make sure they are all square and at proper distances. In particular,  the penalty spot is often not marked or mis-marked. If it is off, don't use it as a guide to get centered in goal.

Law 4 - The Players' Equipment

Law 4 says "each goalkeeper wears colors which distinguish him from the other players, the referee and the assistant referees." This is the only requirement. Tradition allows the keeper to use equipment that is not specified for field players: gloves, long pants, or hats. The referee always has final say on what is allowable; if he deems something to be unsafe, it may not be worn.

Law 8 - The Start and Restart of Play

Law 8 has a section called "Special Circumstances" that players, especially goalkeepers, should be aware of. It has to do with the placement of the ball on free kicks inside the goal area. Essentially, any free kick for the defense inside their own goal area is like a goal kick - it may be taken from anywhere in the goal area and must leave the penalty area before it is in play.

For indirect free kicks for attackers in their opponents' goal area, the kick is taken from the goal area line parallel to the goal line at the point nearest to where the foul occured. Thus, no free kick can be taken from closer than six yards to the goal. More on this special circumstance below the section on free kicks.

Law 9 - The Ball In and Out of Play

Although he is (usually!) a bit more mobile than the goalposts, the referee is considered to be part of the soccer field when it comes to play. A ball rebounding off the referee (or off an assistant referee, if for some reason they are on the field of play) is still in play.

Law 10 - The Method of Scoring

Simple as it seems, I have come across players who did not know that the entire ball must be past the goal line for the goal to count. The outside of the chalked line is the true boundary; the whole of the ball must pass over this boundary. The back of the goalposts should be set even with the outside of the goal line, so that the goal frames are actually considered on the field of play, and the ball must completely clear the posts and crossbar to be a goal.

Law 12 - Fouls and Misconduct

Calls involving fouls and misconduct are the most argued about and disputed in any game of soccer. All players need to remember that all fouls and misconduct are strictly in the opinion of the referee. If the referee has made a decision, it seldom does any good to argue about it. Better to let it go and concentrate on the task at hand (setting the defensive wall, preparing for the penalty kick, etc.).

Direct Free Kicks

The goalkeeper is subject to the same Laws regarding kicking, tripping, holding, pushing, tackling, etc. as all other players on the field. Although the Laws don't give the keeper any special privileges, most referees realize that keepers often put themselves at considerable peril in the thick of play and give them some leeway. However, don't use that as license to commit mayhem in the penalty area.

An example of this is the goalkeeper using the knee when going for high balls. As stated in the section on catching high balls the knee is used to generate height and provide some protection, not as a weapon. A referee who feels the keeper's knee is being used dangerously can call the keeper for jumping or charging... and the result would be a penalty kick, if not a yellow or red card in addition.

Indirect Free Kicks

There are four offenses in Law 12 specifically aimed at the goalkeeper. An indirect free kick is awarded to the opposing team if the keeper, in the penalty area, commits one of the following:

• Takes more than six seconds, after controlling the ball with the hands, to release the ball into play.

  Six seconds is not hard and fast; referees are instructed not to count or signal publicly, and first offenses are usually given verbal warnings. But six seconds is plenty of time to settle the ball, jog up to the edge of the penalty area and find an outlet. During this six seconds, the goalkeeper can move anywhere in their penalty area. Don't get caught by this Law - instead, use it as a reason to work on quick distribution to start the counterattack.

• Touches the ball again with the hands after releasing it into play, before the ball has been touched by another player.

  Bouncing or softly tossing and catching the ball are not considered "releasing the ball into play", but why even risk it? Bouncing the soccer ball is a holdover from olden days where a goalkeeper was able to move in the penalty area if they bounced the ball (similar to a basketball dribble). That rule no longer applies, so once the keeper has the ball safely in their hands, they should hang on to it until they are ready to deliver it downfield.

• Touches the ball with the hands "after it has been deliberately kicked to him by a team-mate".

  The italicized above is a direct quote from the FIFA Laws, and is often misunderstood. Remember the intent of the Law, which is to prevent time wasting by the defense. As such, only a deliberate kick by a teammate, either to the goalkeeper or to a place where the goalkeeper can safely pick the ball up, should be penalized. An accidental deflection off a defender's foot, or a missed clearance that falls to the goalkeeper should not be penalized.

  But as always, "deliberate" is in the opinion of the referee. So if in doubt, don't pick the ball up - unless the ball is at risk of going into the net if you don't use your hands! In that case, better to concede an indirect free kick than a goal.

• Touches the ball with the hands directly from a throw-in from a teammate.

  The goalkeeper may still be used as a target for a throw-in, but they must handle the ball with their feet like any other player.

An indirect free kick can also be given to the goalkeeper's team if an opponent prevents the ball from being released into play by the keeper. This is seldom called, but it's good to know the keeper gets a little protection in the Laws!

Finally, it is an indirect kick if an opponent plays in a dangerous manner. This applies not only to endangering an opponent (e.g. high boot) but also to endangering one's self (this is why the player on the ground is called for this - they have put themselves in harm's way). By tradition, the goalkeeper is given leeway here and is allowed to put themselves in positions that would be dangerous for any other player on the field (for example, sliding at the feet of an attacker).

Law 13 - Free Kicks

Direct and indirect kicks differ in one respect: a direct kick that goes into the net without being touched is counted as a goal; an indirect kick must be touched by another player (on either team) in order to count. Indirect kicks are signalled by the referee raising one arm straight up above his head. Look for this signal; if it is not given, assume a direct kick. If in doubt, ask the referee -- most will also inform you verbally.

Occasionally an attacker will not realize a kick is indirect and shoot straight at the net. In this case, if it is a difficult save, the keeper should just let the ball go in rather than risk deflecting the ball in themselves and providing the touch that let the goal stand. But be absolutely sure it is indirect and nobody but the shooter touched the ball. If in doubt, try to make the save. (By the way, an indirect kick that goes into the net without being touched is awarded a goal kick.)

Any free kick from within the penalty area must leave the penalty area before it is considered in play.

Everybody knows that the defenders must be 10 yards from the spot of a free kick, but what about an indirect free kick that is less than 10 yards from the goal (subject to those "special circumstances" in law 8)? In this case, defenders are permitted to be closer than 10 yards provided they are on the goal line and between the goal posts. This kind of situation doesn't happen much, but it can come up and it would be wise if the keeper knows how to set the defense if this happens.

Law 14 - Penalty Kicks

The only time during a game a goalkeeper should be standing on the goal line is during a penalty kick, and that is only because the Law says so. Goalkeepers are allowed to move side-to-side along the goal line, but not to move forward until the ball is struck.

Why is this Law disregarded so often? Moving forward offers the goalkeeper a host of advantages, from a better catching position to narrowing the size of the net the shooter sees. Why isn't it called more often? Tradition, mostly. This is one of the most inconsistently called Laws in the book, especially for one that isn't even a matter of opinion. Until FIFA decides referees are going to enforce this one to the letter, or the rule is rewritten, we will have to live with the inconsistency.

Equipment

The special demands of goalkeeping call for special equipment. Exactly what a keeper uses is personal preference, but here are some notes on goalkeeping equipment. (Buy your gear via the links on this page and help support this site!)

Gloves

Goalkeeping gloves are designed to protect the goalkeeper's hands as well as provide a better grip on the soccer ball. They range in price from $10 to over ten times that! The gloves a keeper buys will depend on budget and needs, but here are some things to look for when purchasing gloves.

• Grip. How well does the glove surface (usually latex foam) stick to the ball? In general more smooth foam grips better than dimpled foam. I don't recommend gloves with rubber "ping-pong paddle" grip or rubberized grids - they just don't grip well enough. I also recommend gloves where the entire palm surface is foam, not just a few spots here and there. More expensive gloves have specialized foams (and better marketing!), but that doesn't necessarily mean they always grip better.
• Durability. It would be nice if those expensive gloves lasted for a long time. Unfortunately, great grip sometimes comes at the expense of durability. Thicker foam will usually last longer, since the grip goes throughout the foam itself and is not just at the surface. Some soccer gear catalogs  have durability as well as grip ratings for the gloves they sell. Durability applies to more than just the foam, too. Poorly made gloves can start coming apart at the seams before the grip is worn out.
• Cushioning. Gloves provide cushioning to take the sting off a hard hit ball. Thicker foam and glove material helps this; just make sure it's not so thick it hinders the grip.
• Wrist Support. Decent gloves will provide some support for the wrist which can help prevent injury on very hard shots. Look for a wide wrist strap that can be tightened securely.
• Comfort. What glove feels comfortable will vary from keeper to keeper. Some gloves are made with vents or breathable materials to prevent sweaty hands.
• Fit. While goalkeeper gloves should naturally be a bit large-looking on the hands, the exact fit, tight or loose, is up to personal preference. Some keepers like their gloves snug, others like them a bit larger. Many keepers who like close-fitting gloves prefer a negative-cut glove (finger seams are sewn on the inside), which are designed for a more snug fit. On the other hand (so to speak), resist the temptation to buy gloves that are too large, especially for young, growing keepers. The gloves should not be so big that the hand moves around inside them or the gloves twist or bend around the hand.
• Other features. Manufacturers have come up with all kinds of ways to get you to spend more on goalkeeping gloves. Finger protection is one of the most popular - the glove's fingers have plastic inserts that allow the fingers to flex forward normally but not bend backwards. The intent is to prevent finger injury, at the expense of some feel and flexibility. While they may help against certain types of injuries and provide a feeling of security, they are not a cure-all for injury problems or a substitue for developing strong hands. Other gloves have special foams for certain conditions, differently sewn seams, etc. The choice of any of these should be dictated by keeper preference and wallet size.

Glove Care

Once you've gone out and spent all that money on a pair of gloves, you want them to last as long as possible. For gloves, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Here are some basic tips for prolonging the life of keeper gloves:

• The biggest thing a keeper can do to make their gloves last longer is to use proper technique! Catch the ball and use it to cushion a fall instead of slapping it away and falling on the hands, and don't use hands to get up if possible. Practice, practice, practice.
• Keep two sets of gloves, one for practice and one for games only. When my match gloves start to lose it, I relegate them to the practice pile. Only use the $100 gloves for games.
• Wash the gloves after every use. This has two benefits - it removes dirt and grime from the latex, and it keeps them from smelling! (The latter is a major benefit when gloves are being shared.) Hand wash them in mild dish soap (I have never had a problem with this damaging the foam - however, don't use dishwasher detergent) and rinse them thoroughly with clean water. Let them air dry out of the sun.
• Store them in a plastic bag in a cool, dry place (not the trunk of the car). Make sure the gloves are dry first so they won't mildew. The plastic bag will keep the foam from losing its resiliency and tackiness.
• Most latex foam gloves will grip best if slightly dampened before use. The keeper should have a water bottle in goal not only for drinking, but for moistening gloves on dry days. A little water can make old gloves usable for just a little while longer.

A final note on gloves:  even expensive, sticky gloves are no substitute for proper catching technique. A good goalkeeper should be able to perform well without any gloves at all; gloves merely add a measure of safety and comfort.

Goalkeeping Jerseys

Goalkeeping jerseys are traditionally long-sleeved to protect the elbows against the occasional scrape on a dive (you'll note that any elbow padding on a jersey is not significantly thick). A number of goalkeepers, though, favor short sleeves.

The only stipulation in the laws is that the goalkeeper wear "colours which distinguish him from the other players, the referee and the assistant referees". So the  goalkeeper should have at least two jerseys that differ from their team's uniform, and possibly a third to avoid conflict with referees. (The official referee uniform color is yellow as of this writing, so that may be a good color to avoid for goalkeeping jerseys if you're buying new ones.)

Any other goalkeeping jersey feature, like sticky dots on the chest, is mere marketing. You can't catch a soccer ball with your chest!

Goalkeeping Shorts and Pants

Goalkeeping shorts and pants are traditionally padded at the hip to protect the keeper on dives. Full pants are particularly useful if the soccer field has little grass or lots of rocks. Special shorts or pants aren't a necessity although some keepers prefer them.

If the keeper plays wearing shorts, I would  recommend a pair of compression or bicycling-type undershorts (aka "sliders"—which must be the same color as the main short, according to the Laws). These will not hike up on a slide, helping to prevent "strawberry" scrapes on the hip and upper leg.

Additionally, it might be a good idea for a keeper to  have an inexpensive pair of pants or sweats in their bag for protection on days when the training topic will be breakaways and there will be lots of sliding.

Hats

If the sun is low at game time, goalkeepers will often be allowed by a referee to wear a hat to shade their eyes. The hat should be soft-billed with a bill that is not too long. I like to use a bicycling cap - the bill is short, it can be easily flipped up out of the way, and they are usually elastic-lined so they will stay securely on the head.

Make sure you clear any non-standard equipment like a hat with the center referee before the game.

Equipment That Should Not Be Part of a Keeper's Uniform

I often see goalkeepers wearing a couple of items that they probably should not be using.

• Knee Pads.  I believe goalkeepers should never wear knee pads. You never see the pros wear them, and you will not find a single technique on my pages that requires a keeper to land on their knees (although a few training progressions will have steps where they start from their knees).  If your keeper regularly skins their knees, go analyze their play to find out why they are doing so and fix their technique! Particularly watch dives and ground or rolling ball pick-ups, as these are techniques that often result in bloody knees when done incorrectly.
• Elbow Pads. Although not as bad as knee pads, elbow pads also should not be used for similar reasons. Landing on the elbows can certainly be dangerous, but rather than putting elbow pads there, the keeper's technique should be fixed so they are not falling on their elbows in the first place. A long-sleeve jersey should be enough to protect against the occasional elbow scrape.

Psycology

The position of goalkeeper is one of the most psychologically demanding on the soccer field. Mistakes are final. The glory is usually reserved for the players at the other end of the field. It's not a position for everybody. You can't be stupid and play goal, but perhaps you must be a little crazy.

A coach must, of necessity, be a part-time psychologist, and nowhere is this more important than for the goalkeeper, where confidence is key. I am not a sports psychologist, nor do I play one on TV, but here are a few ideas I have found a coach can use to help a goalkeeper's mental toughness and attitude.

• Only play those who want to play in goal
  In youth soccer, everyone is encouraged to try all positions. However, I would not include goalkeeper in that category, at least in game situations. It does no good to put someone in the box who simply does not want to be there. It can be shattering for a youngster to be scored upon. If you must, try everyone in practices, but limit game play to those who want to be (or at least, don't mind being) in net.
• Stay positive when goals are scored
  It can be tough to be positive, especially when a simple lapse has just let in the game-losing goal with seconds to play. Goalkeepers need to be able to put mistakes behind them quickly and recover, so try to put a positive spin on things:
  • Credit the shooter. Sometimes the opposing team has just made a great play; give them credit - it's not always a mistake by the keeper that lets a goal in.
  • Don't dwell on it. Help the goalkeeper shake it off quickly, make a fast coaching point if necessary, and move on once the kickoff has been taken. You can cover problems in more depth at the next practice.
  • Look for the technique that needs improvement. Focus on the skill that needs work, not the fact that the goal was allowed. Very often it's just basic footwork or catching that needs brushing up.
• Give credit for other than direct saves
  A keeper can keep the soccer ball out of the net in more ways than making a direct save - forcing a missed shot gets the job done too. Aggressiveness goes a long way here - by making the shooter decide too early, a keeper can force a miss or a pass on an otherwise open shot. A goalkeeper who can get into the heads of opposing forwards early has a huge advantage.
• Don't panic after a save
  This applies to both coach and goalkeeper. Give the keeper time to internalize the save (builds confidence), calm down, give field players time to recover, and look upfield to restart the attack. Six seconds is plenty of time to do all this. If you stay calm, you're showing that you have confidence in the keeper's ability to control the ball and the game.
• Help the keeper develop good habits
  Teach them good technique, then hammer it in with repetition. Don't allow any lazy or sloppy technique, even when they're not officially doing drills or playing. Good habits will show themselves in games just like bad habits. Repetition is the key; doing it right every time (consistency) is what separates a good goalkeeper from a great one.
• Don't allow less than full effort, every time, every shot
  Every shot deserves an attempt at a save, even if it seems futile. Eventually, the shots that seemed impossible to stop before will start coming into range. If the effort is there, the results will start to come.
• If things aren't going well, pull the goalkeeper with care
  Many coaches will pull a keeper if they are getting shelled, but be aware of the repercussions of this. Some players will take this as a sign you lack confidence in them, and only go downhill. Make sure you stay positive, and point out you're not pulling them because they are a poor player or person, just that it's not their day.
• Encourage additional training
  There isn't always time to properly train a keeper in normal practice sessions, especially when that player needs to develop foot and field skills as well. Encourage them to attend club or private training sessions, goalkeeper camps, rent or buy books or videos, or visit this and other web sites. A player who is serious about goalkeeping needs all the extra training and practice they can get.

Penalty Kicks

The penalty kick was introduced to soccer in 1891 to combat the growing use of illegal means to prevent goals, particularly by handling the ball. In 1905, the requirement was added that the keeper stay on the goal line until the ball was kicked. This denied the goalkeeper the liberty to advance up to six yards, which resulted in "too many" unsuccessful penalties. In 1929, a prohibition on the keeper's lateral movement was imposed, but was generally ignored. This Restriction was repealed in 1997, in recognition (or resignation?) of the fact that goalkeepers were moving along the line anyway.

As the Laws of the game of soccer currently stand, the goalkeeper must be on the goal line between the goalposts, and may not move forward until the ball is struck. All other players are outside the penalty area, at least ten yards from the ball and behind it. The shooter is identified, the keeper and other players take up their position, the referee signals, and the pressure is on!

For the goalkeeper, a penalty-kick really is a no-lose situation. The keeper is not expected to make the save, so the pressure is on the shooter (the conversion rate of penalty kicks, at all levels of soccer, is 80-90%). But there are tricks a goalkeeper can use to increase their odds of making the save.

The days of guess and dive are over. The goalkeeper should learn to "read" the shooter to try to predict where the ball is going. Combined, perhaps, with scouting reports on shooters, and statistics on general tendencies, a keeper can do much better than 50% in picking direction. Although picking the correct direction doesn't always mean the keeper can make the save, it gives them a head start.

Reading the Shooter

• Watch the shooter's eyes and overall demeanor. Often they will give away small clues before they are ever ready to shoot, like peeking at the corner they are aiming for.
• Watch the approach. Is it straight on, or wide? A very wide approach often indicates the shooter is going towards the opposite corner. A straight-on approach gives fewer clues.
• Watch the plant foot. The ball will go where the plant foot points.
• Watch the hips. The ball goes where the hips point. A "push pass" shot will require the hips to open up in the direction the ball is going.
• Watch the head. If the shooter drops their head low with a big pull-back of the leg, it usually means a cross-body shot. If the head stays up more, it can mean the shooter will stay open to push the ball to the opposite corner.
• Don't react too soon. Use the cues above to predict where the ball might go, and be ready to go that way, but wait a split second to be sure it really is going there. The keeper might think one direction based on the shooter's eyes and approach, but the plant foot and hips may tell a different story just before the ball is struck.

General Tendencies

A study done of all the penalties taken in the 1998 World Cup (including shootouts) noted that almost 70% of the kicks taken went to the opposite side from the kicker's dominant foot (that is, right-footed kickers shot to their left -- keeper's right -- and vice versa). (See Goalkeeper Soccer Training Manual, DiCicco 2000.) This is the natural swing of the foot across the body; it is difficult to put the ball to the other corner with an instep kick. So, if all else fails, the keeper should go right for a right-footed kicker and left for a left footer.

Don't Act, React

Also, the goalkeeper should react quickly, but not too quickly. Many penalties, especially at the youth level, are poorly taken, either weakly hit or right down the middle. Often the goalkeeper can easily make the save if they just wait and simply react to the shot.

Even "reading the shooter" is a reaction to what the shooter does, and not just guesswork.

A veteran goalkeeper will use all of this, plus their gut feel from years of experience, to try to save a penalty. Brad Friedel says, "Generally there are loads of subtle little hints as to where a player will shoot that they give to the goalkeeper. How he runs up to the soccer ball, how he stands, if his weight's back, if his weight's forward, if he's looking at you the whole time, if he takes a long run as opposed to a short run. There are lots of little differences but you will never really get the gist of it unless you practice a lot of them and figure out what works best for you."

Advance Tactics

Here are some key points for several important tactics a soccer goalkeeper must know.

Setting a Wall

Fig. 1: Setting a Wall

If the opponent is given a free kick within 10-20 yards of the penalty area (or an indirect kick inside the penalty area), the standard defense is to make a "wall" of two or more players the minimum 10 yards from the spot of the kick. This wall serves to block part of the goal from the shooter so that the goalkeeper only has to worry about guarding a small portion of the goal mouth. However, if the wall is not properly positioned, it my actually do more harm than good!

The wall must be set up quickly, following these basic guidelines:

• One defender must identify themselves as the outside "anchor" of the wall. Make sure everyone knows who this is; they should raise their hand and make eye contact with the keeper. Some teams may wish to identify this player ahead of time, even in practice sessions.
• The goalkeeper must choose how many players will be in the wall. The more extreme the angle, the fewer players. Two players is sufficient for a ball close to the end line; the keeper might want as many as five or even six in the wall for a straight on shot. The exact number will depend on the situation and how much goal the keeper feels confident covering.
• The goalkeeper sets the "anchor" just outside a line between the soccer ball and the near post (Fig. 1). This covers the near part of the goal with a little overlap to prevent balls from bending around the wall. The keeper will usually dash over to the near post to sight from the post to the ball to make sure things are positioned properly. While doing this the keeper is way out of position, so speed is essential! Some teams prefer to free the keeper of this duty by using a forward, who lines up the wall by sighting frombehind the ball back towards the goalpost.
• The other players line up against the "anchor" player to the inside of the goal. Players need to be right against one another so no ball can slip through the wall.

Once the wall is set, the goalkeeper moves to cover the space between the inside of the wall and the far post.

On rare occasions, the attacking team will win an indirect free kick in the penalty area that is less than 10 yards from the goal. (More on this in the laws page.) What to do then? Defenders are allowed to be closer than ten yards to the ball, provided they are on the goal line and between the goalposts. The wall, then, will actually be set in the goal. The tallest players available should be on the goal line, to prevent a chip shot under the crossbar. Since this can only happen on an indirect kick, one defender should be designated as the "bullet man" to rush the ball as soon as it is touched and disrupt a subsequent shot.

Most teams almost never practice this situation; I have seen it occur only a handful of times in thousands of games I've seen. But a good goalkeeper is prepared for any situation, and if they're aware of this provision of the laws, they can organize things quickly if it should ever occur.

Handling Corners

Fig. 2: Corner Kick Setup

Key points for handling corner kicks:

• Anything within the 6-yard box in the air should belong to the keeper! Older players should be able to extend their range even beyond this. Train your keepers in traffic so they will have the confidence to collect corners and crosses in their goal box.
• Start position will vary, but I prefer a spot about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way to the far post (Fig. 2). This is because it is easier to move forward quickly than backwards. The area the keeper should easily be able to cover is shaded in gray.
• Always position a defender on the near post, shoulder right up against it and facing the corner. This player is there to clear away hard driven shots to the near post that the keeper can't get to.
• For balls hit over the head past the far post, track the ball, leave it late and either punch it wide or be ready for a shot or deflection from the far side (the yellow shaded area in Figure 2). Some goalkeepers or coaches like to station a player at the far post to handle these, similar in duties to the near-post defender. I prefer to have this defender marking rather than standing at the far post.

Handling Back Passes

The goalkeeper must sometimes make themselves available as an outlet for a defender under pressure. However, if done incorrectly, a backpass to the goalkeeper can result in tragedy - an uncontested givaway in front of the net or even an own goal. Here are key points for back passes to the keeper.

• The goalkeeper must ask for the ball. Don't ever back pass to keeper who isn't expecting it!
• The keeper who is making themselves available must move away from the goal and outside the near post. This puts them in the least vulnerable position should the pass go awry.
• The passer must pass with good pace and outside the near post. Many own goals have been scored by defenders who passed inside the post and missed connecting with their keeper.
• Once the ball is received, the keeper must clear it quickly, preferrably with one or two touches. Switching fields is often a good option to get the ball away from pressure. This is a skill that must be practiced!

Tactics

Tactics is decision-making. A goalkeeper's decisions must be made quickly, on the fly, taking rapidly changing conditions into account. A goalkeeper's decisions are also final, since there is usually no one behind them to back them up if they make a mistake. This section will cover a few key areas of goalkeeping decision-making.

Never Give Up!

Perhaps this should go under Psychology, but a goalkeeper should always remember to  never give up on a shot. This is especially true on deflections or breakaways - the goalkeeper who is ready to spring to their feet and try again just might get a chance to make another save. Remember that the shooter is just as likely to flub as the goalkeeper, and the goalkeeper should always be ready to take advantage of the opponent's mistakes.

Don't Act, React

Strangely, the first decision a keeper should make when facing a shot is to not make a decision at all! Instead, the keeper should react to a situation as it develops, rather than acting right away. They should stay patient until the right moment comes. Some rules of thumb for keepers:

• Force the shooter to decide. Put the pressure on the attacker - make them decide what they should do. If the keeper is already in good position and prepared, they shouldn't need to act too soon.
• Be ready to pounce on a mistake. As soon as an attacker makes a mistake - a poor touch or pass, a weak shot - that's the goalkeeper's moment to charge in. Look for that opportunity.
• Be ready to react the moment the ball is shot. It is easy to time the shooter and see exactly when the shot will come. Just before the shot is taken the keeper should get into the ready position, able to spring whatever way the shot goes.
• Don't Guess! Guessing what an attacker will do should be reserved for penalty kicks, and even then it is not sheer guesswork. Chances are a guess will be wrong, and once the keeper has gone the wrong way it may be impossible to recover.

Coming Off the Line

Inexperienced keepers struggle with trying to decide when to come off their line. This is certainly a difficult decision to make, since it depends on both the situation on the field - attacker's speed and ability, positions of other players on both offense and defense - and the keeper's ability and confidence.

Fig. 1: Keeper's position in penalty area should match ball's position on the field

The decision will be made a little easier if the keeper starts from a good position. In general, the position of the keeper in the penalty area should match the position of the ball on the soccer field. If the ball is in the attacking third, the keeper should be in the front third of the penalty area; ball at midfield, keeper about 6-12 yards out, ball in the defensive end, keeper close to their line. If the keeper is young and small, or the opposing team like to shoot long, high looping shots, adjust the position back towards the goals a few yards.

Position from the middle to the top of the penalty area helps the goalkeeper get to long through balls more quickly (even intercepting and clearing them outside the area if necessary), and also puts the keeper in the play for use as an outlet for a defender under pressure. Even when they are back, the keeper should stay a minimum of 1-2 yards off the goal line to maintain some angle.  A goalkeeper who stays rooted on the line not only concedes the better part of the penalty area to the attacking team, but gives them the most net to shoot at when they do get close (see basic posiotioning).

A very common question I get asked is, "When should I come out?" I think this is the wrong question. It should be, "How should I come out?" I think that the exact timing is much less critical than coming out hard and decisively and not second-guessing. This is not just for breakaways, but applies to any attempt at the ball (handling crosses, long through balls, etc).

The goalkeeper should:

• Pick a moment when they have a clear shot at the ball, and then
• Come hard for the ball without hesitating or stopping.
• Slow down just as they reach the ball carrier, leaving a couple of arms' lengths of space as a cushion.

The second item here is key. Many a goal has been scored because the keeper was indecisive and got caught in "no-man's land", neither attacking the ball or being in good shot-stopping position. Once the keeper decides they're gong for the ball, they must go through with it; they must at least make some contact with the ball. Once the keeper gets near the ball, they must slow down and leave some space to prevent being dribbled by the attacker.

Never start a run by backing up. They should check the posts, look around at the situation, wait for the right moment, but the keeper should do all of this while on their toes and ready to move forward. (Any backpedalling should have been done previously, well before the keeper's charge. See the breakaway section for more details.

Young and inexperienced goalkeepers may lack the confidence to come hard on a breakaway or out for a high cross. Build confidence by first teaching them proper techniques, and slowly building into game situations - no pressure, then light pressure, then heavy traffic. A keeper who is confident in their footwork, catching ability, and other techniques will have less to worry about when the time comes to be aggressive.

When to Dive

Younger and inexperienced goalkeepers often wonder when they should dive. The answer is, "almost never". A good goalkeeper minimizes the need to dive by being in good position, aggressively sweeping up loose balls, and challenging shooters.  A dive should only be used as a last resort, and always after the shot has been taken. The keeper should  stay on their feet as long as possible - once they've dived, they're committed and can't change their mind if the shooter does something else.

A dive is the ultimate and desperate reaction to a shot, it should only be used in ultimate and desperate situations.

Communicating With Defenders

Communication is a key for every player on the soccer field, and especially so for the goalkeeper. Once the keeper has made a decision, the defenders need to know what it is. The goalkeeper also must be a organizer and general on the field - they are the only player who faces the field the whole time and are the best positioned to see the development of the play.

The keeper should know at least these two basic calls:

• "Keeper!": this means the goalkeeper is making a play on the ball, defenders should get out of the way.
• "Away!": this means the opposite - the keeper is not going after the ball and the defense should pursue it. It is usually used for crosses or corners.

The keeper must yell these commands loudly and repeat them if necessary. There must be no doubt in anyone's mind who's ball it is! This even includes the opposing team - forwards will sometimes back off if they think the keeper is coming hard.

The keeper should also direct traffic and position defenders on the field. Don't expect a lot of this to occur with young keepers, especially those who don't play in goal full time, but with experience a 14 or 15 year old full-time goalkeeper should be able to scan the field and the set the defense as necessary. To do this, the keeper must be a student of the game - they must know:

• The defensive scheme used by the team and how the coach wants the defenders to play
• Tendencies and strengths of the opposing team and opposing players
• The role of first defender, second defender, third defender to make adjustments on the fly
• The role of first, second and third attackers to help anticipate how the attack may develop

In short, they must be a second coach out on the soccer field. This is a tall order for a youth soccer player, but here are a few points that will help develop this.

• Be loud and repetitive. It can be hard to hear out on the field, especially for someone on the ball with their head down. Make sure the message gets through.
• Be specific with commands.  Yelling "Mark up!" or "Who's on #10?" often isn't enough - tell specific players what to do ("John, mark #10" or "Ashley, Kristy, shift one mark to the right").
• Work from the ball outwards. The keeper should focus on the ball carrier first, and arrange defenders near the ball first. When danger is less imminent, set the defenders who are further away.
• Arrange to get feedback from defenders. It can be eye contact, a wave of the hand, a verbal okay, but have defenders let the goalkeeper know they were heard. The goalkeeper will be able to shift focus knowing the defender is set, and the defender won't have the keeper yelling at them for something they already heard.
• If they keeper does not call, the defenders must take responsibility. The defense should never assume the keeper has a ball unless the keeper calls for it; they should go for the ball unless they hear otherwise. A few collisions with their own defense in practice should quickly teach a quiet keeper the value of calling loudly for the ball!

Communication between the goalkeeper and defenders is a key to making the defense function as a unit.

Distribution

The goalkeeper is the last line of defense, but also the first line of attack. I am not advocating attempting to dribble the entire field starting from your own goal like Amadeo Carrizo, but a quick restart to the attack can be very effective. After a save is made, the keeper must quickly look to break out and start the counter. This is especially true after the Laws change of July 1, 2000 eliminating the four-step limitation and requiring the goalkeeper to put the ball back in play after 5-6 seconds.

Distribution can be done two ways: throws or kicks. Both have advantages for certain situations.

Kicks

A goalkeeper may simply drop the ball to the ground and take the kick normally, especially if they have a big foot. When more distance is required, to break pressure or for younger players, a punt or drop kick is used.

• Punts
   A punt is usually the kick with the greatest distance, although the high trajectory and hang time usually mean 50-50 balls at the receiving end. Start with the ball in both hands. It may be more comfortable to end up dropping the ball with one hand rather than two. If so, the hand on the same side as the kicking foot should be used (you'll see this in the video clip). But starting with both hands will allow for more consistency in the drop. Take a short run up (about 2-3 steps) at a slight angle to the kicking direction; this gets the hip more involved and generates more power.The plant foot should point towards the target. Drop the ball - don't toss it upwards! - and kick, following through to land on the kicking foot. The kicking foot should be straight, directly on line with the target, and should not swing around the body.
• Drop Kicks
   A drop kick, where the ball hits the ground before being contacted by the foot, gives a lower trajectory ball. This makes it better for driving into the wind and makes it easier for teammates to receive. It does not have quite the distance of a punt, however. The technique is very much the same as a punt, except the kick is timed so the foot strikes the ball just after it bounces on the ground. The drop kick has a distinctive "ba-DUM" sound you can listen for: the "ba" is the ball hitting the ground; the "DUM" is the foot striking the ball a fraction of a second later.

Timing is everything for both punts and drop kicks. Just like free-throw shooting in basketball, kicking distribution must be practiced over and over until the timing becomes automatic. Don't be discouraged when kicks are very inconsistent at first - time and lots of practice will improve things.

Goal Kicks

 Goalkeepers ought to take their own goal kicks if possible. This allows the defense to push out and keep attackers from lurking about near the penalty area and ensures that defenders are marked up and organized in case of a quick change of possession.

As with punts and drop kicks, technique is the key. Power is usually less of an issue than the ability to get some loft on the ball to increase the distance. Keys to getting a good goal kick are:

• Fig. 1: Long stride

   Approach the ball from a slight angle. This will allow the hip flexor to get involved more and generate more leg speed. Make sure the follow through is straight at the target, though.
• The ankle of the plant foot should be just behind the ball and the body should be leaning back. This differs from shooting technique! If the plant foot is too close to the ball, it will be difficult to get any height on the kick.
• The final step into the kick should be a long, smooth stride (Fig. 1). This also helps generate leg speed. A short, choppy run-up won't allow a proper leg swing.

• Fig. 2: Foot angle

   The toe needs to be pointed slightly outwards (ankle locked!) in order to get the foot under the ball (Fig. 2). This is probably the most crucial point. Although a goal kick is an instep drive, you want to use the inside of the shoelaces, not the top. The foot should be angled outward so the contact point is on the lower half of the ball, just above the first joint of the big toe on the inside of the instep (Fig. 3). An analogy I like to use is that of a golf wedge versus a driver. The foot should be more like a wedge in order to get under the ball and give the it proper trajectory and distance.

• Fig. 3: Ball contact

   If the kicks are long but tend to curl and affect accuracy, watch the point where the foot strikes the ball. With an angled approach and long swing, the natural tendency will be to hit an "inswinging" ball; to counteract this, the strike point should be just to the "inside" of the ball (just to the left of center on the ball for a right footed kicker, vice versa for lefties).

If a keeper is struggling to get the ball off the ground, it can be helpful to try working off a "tee" at first: a tall tuft of grass, flat cone, etc. This will allow more space to get under the ball. Once that is working well, lower the ball. You shouldn't need a specialized keeper coach to help with goal kicks; any good soccer coach should be able to help you tune up your place kick.

A final word on kicks: let your good technique do the work for you! A keeper who tries too hard to "explode" the ball will likely mis-hit the ball and suffer inconsistency. Relax, and let the mechanics of the kick work for you.

Throws

Throws are usually much shorter than kicks, but much more accurate. A quick throw right to the feet of an open teammate is often the safest distribution. The goalkeeper has several basic throws available. I've listed them here in order of decreasing accuracy and increasing distance.

For the javelin, sidearm and overhand throw, the trajectory of the soccer ball should be mostly level or even downwards, not high and looping. We want the ball to hit the ground in front of the receiver, to give it time to settle on the grass and make for an easy trap. A rule of thumb is to have the ball initially hit the ground about two-thirds of the way to the receiver.

• Fig. 4: The Roll

  Roll 
  The roll (Fig. 4) is the most accurate but shortest distribution. It is also typically the easiest for teammates to receive. Control the ball between the palm of the hand and the forearm with a bent wrist, step with the opposite foot, and "bowl" the ball, making sure the fingertips touch the ground on the delivery. This will require bending the knees and waist to get low enough. Just like in real bowling, you don't want to drop the ball from the hand to the ground. The transition should be smooth.

• Fig. 5: Javelin Throw

  Javelin or Baseball Throw 
  In the middle of the accuracy and distance scale is the javelin or baseball throw (Fig. 5). The form is similar to how a javelin is thrown. The ball starts in the palm beside the head and is thrown straight forward as the keeper steps into the throw. Some backspin on the ball will help it "sit down" and make it easier to receive, so the keeper can let the ball roll of their fingertips slightly at the end of the release to provide this. Make sure the fingers are slightly over the top of the ball to keep it on a level or downward trajectory.

• Fig. 6: Sidearm Throw

  Sidearm Throw 
  The sidearm throw (Fig. 6) lies between the javelin and overhand throw in both distance and accuracy, and also in its delivery. The arm is extended back slightly behind the body at a "three-quarters" angle, not straight to the side but just below shoulder level. The ball is delivered with a bit of a slinging, sweeping motion. Because the arm position is sideways, the best way to put backspin on this throw is by passing the palm of the hand under the ball upon release, letting the ball roll off the middle and index finger and the thumb. Again, keep the fingers over the top of the ball so it stays low.

• Fig. 7: Overhand Throw

  Overhand Throw 
  The overhand throw or "sling" is the longest but least accurate throw (Fig. 7). It can be a good technique for very young players, since sometimes they can actually throw it as far as they can punt. The soccer ball is again controlled between the palm and forearm with a bent wrist. The arm is placed almost straight back, and as the keeper steps into the throw, the arm is fully extended, elbow locked, and brought around in a circle, over the head, and released towards the target. The hand should end pointing at the target, and letting the fingertips roll under the ball at the finish can provide some backspin to help the ball roll smoothly.

  This is technically the most difficult throw. The hand must stay on top of the ball throughout the 180 degrees or so of arc; centrifugal force keeps the ball in place, much like water stays in a bucket when it's whirled around on a rope. The elbow must remain locked until the release, and the release point is critical. Often times the elbow will bend as the ball comes over the head, destroying the flow of the throw. Make sure the elbow stays locked, the ball comes high over the head, and then is released.

Breakaways

The breakaway save requires all that a goalkeeper can muster - technique, timing, toughness, and courage. A successful save can turn the tide of a soccer game and lift the whole team, but it has to start with a solid technical foundation. Proper technique also serves to keep the goalkeeper from injury in what can be an extremely dangerous situation.

There are three key components to a breakaway save:

• Positioning Proper starting position is critical, since leaving the goal from a bad spot will either strand the keeper in no-man's land or leave a wide-open net for the shooter. As the opponents bring the ball into the goalkeeper's defending third, the keeper should already be backing up towards the goal (see tactics: coming off the lines). As the ball gets within shooting range (35-40 yards; less for younger players), the goalkeeper should back up to a few yards off the line and check their position relative to the goal. Now they are in good starting position and set to come out and challenge a breakaway if necessary.
• Timing A perfectly executed save at the wrong time can make a keeper look foolish, but a well-timed attempt, even with imperfect technique, has a chance of stopping the attacker. The keys to timing the save are:
  1. Time the attacker.  Be ready to charge the moment the attacker makes a mistake. Wait for the attacker to make a long touch, and try to get to the soccer ball when it is as far off the attacker's foot as possible. Barring that, the keeper should start the challenge just as the attacker touches the ball, so that they get there before the attacker can get another touch. For more discussion on when to come out, see the tactics section.
  2. Match the attacker's pace. If the attacker is coming in slow, the goalkeeper should approach slowly. If the attacker is moving quickly, the goalkeeper should too. If the keeper charges a stationary attacker, the attacker can easily cut around the keeper; if the keeper is too slow, a fast moving attacker will be by them or get a shot off before they can react.
  3. Leave a cushion. Once the keeper has closed down the attacker, they should slow and  leave a cushion of a couple of arms' lengths between themselves and the attacker. Slowing down at this point will make the goalkeeper better able to react to a quick shot, and the cushion prevents the goalkeeper from being easily dribbled. Keepers  who get too close too soon will often "pull out" of a save, standing up out of their low ready position and allowing the attacker an easier shot.
  4. Stay up as long as possible. Once the goalkeeper is on the ground, they're committed, so they should stay up on their feet until the save is as sure as can be. This is especially true of a slowly moving attacker who can easily dribble around a fallen keeper.
  5. Once committed, come hard and don't stop. A keeper who second-guesses themself gives the attacker the advantage. It's all or nothing in this situation!
• The Sliding Save 

  Fig. 1: Low Ready Position

  To start, approach the attacker in a slightly modified, lower ready position with the hands close to the ground (Fig. 1). The keeper needs to be close to the ready position because a shot could come at any moment, but modified because at close range the keeper is vulnerable to the quick, close shot right along the ground.

  When the moment is right, start the slide. The goalkeeper should slide with their feet towards the center of the goal, with their body square to the attacker, and centered so the ball is around their lower chest or midsection. An attacker will be more likely (less afraid) to try to cut the ball to the hands/head side of the goalkeeper, so by sliding with the feet to the center of the goal an attacker who goes this way will go wide. Staying square provides the longest barrier possible; centering the ball provides equal barrier on either side. Do not allow the goalkeeper to slide feet first! Not only does this provide very little barrier to the attacker, but it exposes the whole lower part of the keeper's body to the attacker.

  Fig. 2: Modified "Cobra" Catching Position

  Finally, smother the ball with the hands. In fact, throughout the slide the intent of the keeper should be to get their hands on the ball before the attacker can touch it again.  Having the "hands first!" attitude will also help keep the slide from going feet first. If necessary, the keeper can use a modified catch involving the forearms to act as a shock absorber. The ball is caught with a bent wrist, between the palm and the forearm. The hands are hooked over the ball, in a sort of "cobra" position (Fig. 2). This position provides maximum protection, especially if the attacker is about to strike the ball.

After the save is made, the soccer ball should be securely held in front of the goalkeeper. The keeper should not roll over on or curl up around the ball, since this puts body parts between the ball and the attacker who is swinging at it! The ball is the keeper's shield in this case. Under Law 12, Decisions of the International FA Board, it states "The goalkeeper is considered to be in control of the ball by touching it with any part of his hand or arms." The referee should be reminded of this if they allow an attacker to kick at the ball after the goalkeeper has their hands on it.

Finally, never give up on the ball, especially on a breakaway! Even if the goalkeeper does not smother the soccer ball completely on the slide, they will often deflect it, or at least push the attacker wide. If they can recover quickly, they may have given themselves 

Punching

Punching, or boxing, is used to clear away crossed balls that cannot be caught, usually in heavy traffic. It is not a technique used often, as the ball should be caught whenever possible, but can be very effective in allowing a keeper to demonstrate they have complete control over their goal area. If there is any doubt for a keeper that they they will not be able to catch a cross, it should be punched. "When in doubt, punch it out" (but remember this applies only to crosses, not shots!).

Punching hand position

The three keys to an effective punch are:

1. Width - getting the ball towards the sidelines, out of the center of the soccer field
2. Distance - getting the ball as far away from the goal as possible
3. Height - getting the ball over the attacking players

The proper hand position for punching is important for best control and for avoiding finger injuries. The hands should form a fist, with the four fingers forming a flat surface, and the thumb pressed firmly against the side of the fist but below the flat surface out of harm's way. The flat surface allows for the most control, as well as getting sensitive knuckles out of the way. Do not tuck the thumb inside the fingers, as this is just asking for a hand injury.

Punching can be done with one hand or both hands. This is determined by the direction you want the ball to go:  If you are trying to send the ball back in the direction it is coming from, use two hands. If you want the ball to continue away in the same direction it is already going, use a one-handed punch.

 A two-handed punch starts with the fists placed together to form the largest surface possible. The hands should start close to the body, elbows at the sides, and then explode through the ball, utilizing back and hip muscles as well, to drive the ball high, far and wide of the goal. Often a weak punch results when the ball is struck with arms already extended, so make sure the hands start from close to the body.

The hand takes the same shape for a one-handed punch as for a two-handed punch; use the flat surface formed by the fingers. Use a one handed punch to box the ball in the same direction it is already going: use the arm on the same side the ball is coming from, and punch in a powerful, compact motion across the body to send the ball on. Avoid a wide, looping swing as this does not generate much power. This should be a punch, not a slap!

Parrying

A ball may be too far away to catch cleanly, but sometimes just a fingertip to the ball can be enough to send it high or wide. Parrying, or tipping, is the technique used to do this.

The open hand (heel of the palm or fingertips, depending on the save) should be used to redirect the ball, not the fist. Extended fingers have a few more inches of reach than the fist in addition to having more control. Don't let your players try to punch the ball around the goal - punching is reserved for crossed balls and is discussed separately below.

Parrying High Balls

The most common use of parrying is to get to balls chipped over the goalkeeper's head. The technique is very similar to how a baseball fielder might play a similar ball hit over them. The basic steps are these:

• Decide (quickly!) which side the ball is going to. If it's coming directly at the keeper, they should just pick their most comfortable side.
• Get the hips pointed in the proper direction - turn left if going back to the left, turn right if going back to the right. This can also be accomplished by simply taking one step back with the foot on that side.
• Use a crossover step to get back as quickly as possible.
• power step upwards, slightly backwards (the only time a keeper will ever be allowed to go backwards!) and through the ball. The keeper should aim to get to the ball as high as possible - above the level of the crossbar if they can.
• Get the opposite side hand to the ball. If the ball is on the left, for example, the keeper should use the right hand. This is because as the keeper turns sideways, the opposite hand becomes the "top" hand and will be closest to the soccer ball.
• Use the fingers and top of the palm to simply direct the ball straight up. The momentum of the ball will provide enough energy to get over the bar. The ball should not need to be pushed up over the bar - if it's coming slowly enough to require a good push, it should probably be caught instead of parried. In addition, the palm should always face forward - the keeper should not turn the palm towards the goal and try to push or "dunk" the ball backwards over the crossbar.
• Don't worry too much about the landing. Some keepers like to use their twisting momentum to roll out of the landing; others just land however they fall.

Good footwork, from hip turn to crossover to power step, is critical to a good parry over the crossbar.  A keeper should never back straight up on a ball over their head - it puts their weight on their heels and can lead to balls pushed into the top of the net, or worse yet, a bruised tailbone as they fall over backwards.

Parrying Balls Around the Post

The technique for tipping balls around the post is similar to that for extension diving, except only one hand is used. Which hand? The closest to the ball. For low balls, this will be the one on the ball side, or the bottom hand once the keeper dives. For high balls, the hand on the far side should be used, as this will be the top hand when the keeper is horizontal.

To parry a ball around the goalpost:

• Use good footwork to get into position for the dive
• Explode through the ball, forward at an angle, using extension diving technique
• Lead with the hand closest to the ball, using the heel of the palm to deflect the ball outside the post. The heel of the palm provides the most solid surface to contact the ball while still maintaining some control.

Make sure the keeper goes forward at an angle when parrying around the post - the ball will not be caught, so a goalkeeper diving backwards will all too often just deflect the ball into the side netting.

Advance Diving

The two techniques on this page are reserved for goalkeepers who are a bit older and have the physical skill to perform them. As a rule of thumb, these diving techniques should be introduced to youngsters starting at about the U12 or U13 level. Like other diving techniques, these are rough on the body, so be careful not to overtrain them.

The Front Smother

The front smother, also known as the forward dive, forward smother, or forward vault, is actually a very commonly used technique at higher levels of the game. It is used on hard, low shots or balls that are going to "short-hop" the keeper. Essentially, it is a combination of a moving ground-ball pickup and a basket (inverted contour) catch, with momentum taking the goalkeeper forward over the ball and to the ground. This ensures the keeper completely smothers the ball and does not give up a rebound.

The goalkeeper should strive to get the ball  before it hits the ground if possible, but whether the catch is on the fly or on the short hop, the goalkeeper needs to be attacking the low ball aggressively and not waiting and risking a funny bounce.

 The steps in a front smother are:

• Move towards the ball. This is a dive, so the goalkeeper needs some forward momentum. Try to get to the ball before it hits the ground if possible; if not, get it on the short hop.
• Catch the ball similar to the technique for a moving ground ball pickup: hands low and together in a basket, feet staggered. Catch the ball with the hands -- do not try to trap it between the arms and chest.
• Bring the ball up into the protected position.
• Continue the momentum forward and low over the ball, with the legs stretching out behind. This gets the goalkeeper's knees out of harm's way.
• Go to ground, using the forearms to cushion the landing.

A sure sign of a keeper who needs to learn a front smother is if they consistenly drop to their knees to field driven low balls that are going to land around their feet. If you see this, teach them to attack the soccer ball and gather it in with a front smother before it hits the ground.

The front smother is here in the Advanced Diving section, rather than the Catching section, for a couple of reasons. First, young goalkeepers should first learn to stay on their feet as long as possible, and encouraged to handle as many balls as they safely can without going to ground. I usually don't introduce the front smother until goalkeepers are at least 12 years old or so. Second, this is a physically demanding technique -- it puts stress on the arms and upper body even when done correctly, and can take a toll on the knees when done improperly -- and young goalkeepers may not be up to the task. You can introduce the technique at any age, but be careful not to overdo training on these techniques and don't push any goalkeeper who isn't ready.

The Rotation Dive

One of the most difficult balls to stop is the hard, ground-hugging shot just a yard or so from the goalkeeper's feet. Often a reaction kick save is the only way to get to such a ball, but if the keeper has just a bit more time they may be able to get their hands to the ball using a rotation or "windmill" dive.

Although they may appear to break them from time to time, goalkeepers are still subject to the law of gravity. A keeper's center of mass simply will not get to the ground any faster than gravity will allow. However, a goalkeeper can get their hands and upper body to the ground faster than gravity alone by rotating their body around the center of mass. Rather than push up or out, the legs are used to give rotational force to keeper's body

 The technique is rather different than other dives, as it does not start out with the usual step toward the ball. In fact, the first step is actually away from the ball:

• Drop the shoulder nearest the ball, then take the leg nearest the ball and pull it up underneath the body and away from the ball. This starts the body downward and imparts some of the rotation.
• Reach downward for the ball with the near hand. The far hand will be late arriving with this technique; that's to be expected.
• As the fall continues, kick the far leg out and upwards. This continues the rotation and gets the upper body to the ground and behind the ball.
• Finish the dive in proper position, square to the ball.

The Right Angel

Why do Goalkeepers Dive Backwards?

As a goalkeeper, I was always taught to dive forward at an angle for balls. This is also what I coach. However, many goalkeepers have a strong tendency to dive backwards. You even see this at the international level. Why is this so common when supposedly the coaches have taught them otherwise?

I encountered a fellow on rec.sport.soccer who claimed a goalkeeper should always dive backwards, since it gave them more time to react to the ball (he was obviously not a goalkeeper coach!). But there had to be some reason why the tendency was so strong. I decided to write a short program to simulate the problem and see what it could tell me.

Modeling the Situation

I modeled the situation with some simplifying assumptions , varying the position of the shooter and the goalkeeper, the direction of the shot, speed of the goalkeeper and the ball, and the delay of the goalkeeper's reaction time. This last turned out to be the key. If the keeper always reacts at the same instant the ball is struck, the angle of interception can never be less than square (90 degrees). However, if there is a delay - which there almost always is - the optimum angle of intercept can be backwards (greater than 90 degrees)! The longer the delay and the slower the keeper, the more "backwards" the angle can become.

So, why do goalkeepers dive backwards? The answer is that sometimes that's the best angle to intercept the ball. I think instinctively, athletes will try to make the most efficient movements; in this case, get to the ball by expending the least amount of energy, at the lowest speed possible. As we can see, slower speed means a more backwards angle. And consider the case of a hard, close-in shot: by the time the keeper reacts, the ball is practically past them and their only hope is a backwards sprawl.

Why Dive Forwards?

So given that the best angle to dive at is often backwards, why coach goalkeepers to dive forwards? There are still four very good reasons, three of which don't show up in this simulation. They are listed in roughly their order of importance:

• Greater acceleration and speed 
  Backwards dive angles may be optimum at a certain speed, but in any situation the dive angle decreases as the goalkeeper speed increases. A forward step allows a more explosive power step and greater acceleration and speed on the dive. The legs can't generate nearly as much power with a step backwards as with a step forwards. In a close case, a few extra fractions of a foot per second of extra speed generated might turn a "dive backwards and miss" into a "dive forwards and make the save". You can easily see this in the applet above. The faster the goalkeeper speed is set, the better the forward angle.
• Better angle of deflection 
  If the goalkeeper gets to the ball but does not make a clean catch, they have a much better chance of knocking the ball away from the goal if they are diving forwards. A goalkeeper diving backwards often will manage only to knock the ball into the side netting.
• Better catching position 
  It is easier to catch a ball that is coming straight at you - not rising or falling. As a goalkeeper dives backwards, the angle the ball approaches the keeper's hands becomes greater, seeming to travel "upwards" from the palms towards the fingertips. To get a "straight on" hand position, the keeper would have to dive at the angle perpendicular to the flight of the ball - and this angle is always forwards if the keeper is properly positioned.
• Better coverage of the goal with the body 
  Diving square means that the length of your body is covering the largest portion of the goal. This can be crucial if the dive is misjudged or the ball takes a bad hop. As the dive turns backwards, the keeper gets more and more "feet on" to the shooter and the body covers less of the goal.

To conclude, the goalkeeper response of diving backwards is to be expected, since that's where the easiest interception point may be. The human mind is pretty good at instinctively judging angles (as a friend of mine put it, "You don't have to know much about trigonometry to figure out that bus is going to hit you if you step off the curb."). Our challenge as coaches is to overcome the instinct in order to teach the players how better to keep the ball out of the net.